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If you are looking to add/upgrade disc brakes on your Chevelle, you’ll need to pay close attention to the wheel on the hub assembly. Often times, the mounting plane of the new hub will cause the wheel to sit further outward in the wheel well. Depending on the wheel and tire size, this slight variance can create all sorts of clearance problems. Check it out before installing or assembling the parts!

Be careful with those ever so delicate roof drip moldings! These thin, stainless moldings literally “pinch” over the drip channel in the roofline. The best way to remove them is to use a small block of wood and a rubber mallet. In some cases, you can actually remove them by hand. But like we said, they are extremely fragile and easy to kink, so be very careful. Start from whatever end of the molding is easiest. Wedge the end of the wood block underneath the lip and slightly tap it with the mallet. Try to avoid a “square” hit on the lip of the molding. This will only damage the piece and make it more difficult to remove. The key is to position the block just behind the lip between the roof channel and the molding. It should take minimal force to pop and release the trim from the roof.

Replacing your window regulators or door latch mechanism assembly?

Dust Buster (or a generic “canned air” product) is commonly used to clean computer keyboards. Basically, it is cold, compressed air in a can. It works great for blasting unwanted debris from your car’s nooks and crannies. We’ve used it to blast dust from interior vents and to remove dried, crusty wax residue on the exterior (especially around emblems). The air comes out of the can under high pressure and is extremely cold, so short bursts work best. If you’re concerned about the pressure damaging a part, use from a further distance and try light “bursts” first.

A hair dryer works best to loosen the adhesive used to keep sticker/decals in place. Go slow and be aware that too much heat could damage paint. Here, as we use it on glass, that is not a problem.



Heat an edge of the sticker/decal and try to peel it away. As it loosens, pull more of the sticker away from the surface until it’s free.

At Eckler’s, we deal primarily with restoration and performance parts and accessories, so the subject of paint colors and codes doesn’t come up that often. But when it does, somehow Marina Blue always enters the conversation. It’s just one of those colors.

I remember being at a big car show a few years back. It was an all-GM show, with just about every brand of The General being present. I came across a couple of guys gushing over a pretty blue ’65 Impala. “Marina Blue - awesome color” I heard. Wrong-o. I also remember a buddy of mine, years ago, telling me that his buddy had a ’70 Cutlass in Marina Blue. Mmmm, sorry. I’ve even heard “knowledgeable” friends say they’ve seen ’68 and ’69 Chevelles in MB. Seems this color sure did get around a lot!

Picture this: Two gorgeous big-block Chevelles parked side by side, both packing identical firepower. One’s got the standard SS hood, the other’s equipped with a cowl induction setup. What’s the big difference you ask? Five, 10, maybe 15 more horses? Nope. Actually the cowl induction system adds zero horsepower to your Chevelle. What’s the point then? How about a super-cool flap that opens up under full throttle acceleration announcing to the world that this car’s not to be messed with! Well if you think that’s cool, you’ll love how easy it is to install one of these systems on your ’70 through ’72 Chevelle or El Camino.